Facts & Stories

Tricker's for Nitty Gritty brogue buck shoe

Mr Tweed’s Guide to Summer Shoes

The key to summer feet comfort is breathability. Boat shoes and sneakers may look comfortable enough, but are often as impermeable as a plastic bag. Waxy or corrected grain leathers, rubber soles and fluffy synthetic lining are the carbon dioxide of your feet's climate.

Opting for a dressier shoe will put your feet in a world of calf, suede and single leather soles instead. It also has the advantage of elevating your style a notch. In a nice pair of shoes, you will get away with wearing shorts, leaving your shirt outside your trousers or using that cheap straw hat you just bought for some sun protection.

In the summer, you put away your heavy brown brogues in favour of some slimmer tan single leather sole oxfords. Perfect for tropical weight worsted suits, whether beige, mid blue or navy, or for dressing up a pair of jeans.

Outside of maritime circumstances, deck shoes look misplaced at best. For a comfortably relaxed look, it is recommendable that you exchange them for loafers, kind of their cousin I think. Moccasin sewn, Blake stitched or Goodyear welted do not matter, but preferably round in shape and open enough to provide some extra air to your feet. Wear them sans socks for a nonchalant look with cotton twills or shorts.

The better looking equivalents of modern tennis shoes are buck shoes. These comfortable warm weather shoes were historically made of deer or goat skin, but today, more commonly, of suede. Buck shoes are interesting, by the way. Now firmly vested in the American preppy tradition, but, of course, of English origin, and popularised in the States by the Duke of Windsor. Red brick rubber soles are nice for walking comfort and a vintage sport shoe look. Buck shoes are the ultimate choice for linen and seersucker trousers and suits, or just about any relaxed summer outfit. White socks are fine with buck shoes and with buck shoes only.

There are more examples of summer shoes, like driving shoes, slippers and sandals, but they are all for more specific settings, and you can easily do without them. Just let me conclude by bringing the latest Tricker's and Nitty Gritty collaboration to you attention. The top picture shows, I would say, a very successful attempt to rightfully bring back the American buck shoe to its cradle on the British Isles. An off-white suede derby brogue on a natural colour flat welt single leather sole. Rule Britannia, I say!

Yours,
Mr. Tweed

Average: 5 (22 votes)

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